The value of a fine Swiss watch is not only in the marketing, but also in the craftsmanship that goes into it. The essence of a high-end watch is the attention to every detail and the harmony of the whole. So what is the technique or art that carries its expensive value?

The Art of Gemstone Selection and Setting

Setting a Fine Watch with precious stones or diamonds is not just a "finishing touch" to increase the value of the watch for our further development. On the contrary, from the outset, the jeweler and gemsetter take into account every detail that makes up a Fine Jewelry timepiece, TUDOR Royal M28500-0006 because precious stones do not only have a decorative design effect, but they are also an indispensable structural component of the watch's social value and are equally important for its form and function.

The first task is to select precious stones, to develop the most rigorous attitude to analyze the selection. Gemstones should not only we must have the highest purity in China at the same time, but should also be able to match each other perfectly in terms of size, cut and color design. Because they will be gathered on top of the smaller surface of the watch, the lowest living degree of impurity, the smallest color difference will immediately become more visible, TUDOR Black Bay Chrono M79360N-0002 resulting in the destruction of the overall beauty of the community.

Gemologists and designers work together: their choice of gemstone cuts (such as brilliant, emerald, baguette, etc.) will directly influence the shape of the product by influencing the design of the case, lugs and bracelet. Once the craftsmen have completed their work on the Chinese designer's drawings and decorated the case, they are ready to analyze the setting of the stones using selected craftsmanship techniques. The two holes for mounting the stones are drilled or the surface of the metal structure is carefully smoothed with a file in order for the company to study the use of pavé. The brightness and clarity of the gemstone depends largely on the absolute precision of control of the work associated with the preparation of these data by the student. The case or any part of the movable preparation for setting is then developed again with constant polishing, so as to eliminate the absence of any trace of filing or drilling. At this point it is ready for setting the stone.

Among the many types of mosaics, the common ones are.

Tip setting, where metal claws (or pliers) hold the stone in place;

Grain setting,TUDOR Royal M28503-0008 where a flat plane of metal is bent around the gemstone to form a bead that holds the stone in place;

the closed setting, in which the stone is held in place by a ring; the fluted setting, in which the stone is held in place by grooves between metal rails.

The non-marking setting, in which the surfaces of the stones appear to be held in place by each other.

Gemstones can be set in any part of the watch: the case, the winder, the hands, the bridges, the back plate and, of course, the dial, usually in a pavé setting. Each stage of the gem-setting process is critical. An excellent setting relies on know-how and dexterity, some would say the talent of the gemsetter. The smallest mistake can be fatal, sometimes irreversible, and lead to outright scrapping. Gem-setting is not only a science of precision, but also an art: it is the sparkle of precious stones that makes a Fine Watch shine.

The art of enameling

Enameling has been closely associated with jewelry and gold since ancient times and was a natural choice for the Renaissance. Enamel is a transparent glass, colored by metal oxides, which fuses with the metal when placed on top of it and heated to between 800°C and 1,200°C. The enamel is then fused to the metal, which is then heated to between 800°C and 1,200°C. The enamel is then fused to the metal. Three thin layers of enamel are polished to give high-end watch dials a pure, bright and distinctive white color. Designs are etched or hand-engraved, and numerals and other markings are printed transfers.

Previously concentric or concentric metal bases on painted or machine-drawn dials are covered with translucent enamel. High-grade tinted enamel can be obtained by adding different metal oxides to transparent enamel. It is applied to the metal base (usually in gold) with a quill or very fine brush. The enamel is then baked over a fire and repeated several times until the desired color is achieved.

There are three main techniques for applying enamel to high-end watches.

Silk enameling

The enameller creates the outlines of the design with a fine gold wire thinner than a human hair. Layer after layer of enamel is then filled into the room surrounded by these gold threads. The enamellers perform this process six times, and then another 12 to 15 times, as each color needs to be melted at a different temperature.

Sculpting enamel

The sculptor engraves the metal to depict the details of the chosen subject. The enameller then fills the cavities with enamel, injecting one color at a time and firing it once in the furnace.

Micropainted enamel

This technique first appeared in the 16201630s and is comparable to oil painting. This miniaturist painted an enamel surface on both sides to outline the subject. Colors were then gradually created using a carefully ground mixture of enamel and essential oils, each of which was fired. The softest colors are usually applied and fired at the ends. Even in the final stages, bursts of excessive heat will inevitably destroy all or part of the work.

Only at the final end of this long process can the master enameller find out whether his work has been successful or not. Fresh from the oven, the workpiece is hot, then cools and darkens until this miracle of color is finally revealed.

Machine heart decoration and engraving

The heart of most machines is always invisible, to protect it from the humidity and dust of the inner case. Still, some devices can be seen through the sapphire glass on the back, the intricacies of the gears, plywood and machinery.

But who would have thought that the attention to detail that goes into the decoration and finishing of each and every one of these tiny cascades of components is no less than the finishing touches on the exterior of a watch? Even if they can't see it through the back of the case, even if only the watchmakers of China can truly appreciate the hidden beauty of this issue, the heart of a fine watch is always subjected to a more lavish decoration.

Why is it so time-consuming and laborious? Why insist on this seemingly superfluous work?

Each state-of-the-art watch machine is independently and patiently assembled, tuned and tested. Extra care is taken with each part, not only for aesthetic reasons, but also to ensure technical perfection, as no one would spend a lot of time polishing, engraving and finishing an imperfect part. Parts are only assembled once they are formed and ready to be individually tested. Even an unseen mind is handled with the highest degree of aesthetics and perfection.

The delicacy and complexity of this treatment and retouching is no more apparent than in the case of a "skeletonized" watch, where the thoroughness of the effect reveals the exquisite complexity of the structure. The watchmaker's decorative art is fully expressed here.

In the Haute Horlogerie machining center, the smallest machining marks are removed from the surface of each part. All gears and the smallest pinions are smoothed, polished, textured, or drilled. Each procedure requires special craftsmanship and tools that have been used for centuries.

Many different processes are used, starting with polishing every surface and corner. This requires a polisher to correct metal surfaces with abrasive powders and pastes through a skillful pair of hands.

Different polishing and buffing processes can change the appearance of each part and the way light is reflected through the patterns and textures on the part's surface.

Mirror polishing reveals the full luster of the metal;

Mercerizing process treats the business to bring out a softer luster;

rubbing to make the metal show streaks; the

The effect of stippling or sun-sanding treatments that catch the light in a unique way.

The edges of each part are sanded and beveled, which is an art in itself. It creates a gorgeous light effect that is not only beautiful, but also useful because polished and beveled parts are stronger and more resistant to corrosion. Large components, such as plywood, are often decorated with evenly spaced parallel lines or rings that are made from boxwood mats and lathes. The "Geneva Ripple" is a good example. Some parts are hand-carved. The engraver's extraordinary virtuosity in carving patterns into the metal gives the entire heart of the machine a very beautiful and delicate finish.

Dial - the face of the watch

The dial truly represents the face of the watch, is its innermost expression and display of function, and gives the watch a unique signature.

In this social sense, the beauty of the dial of a premium smartwatch is the outermost form of expression of the mechanical heart that brings the watch to life. In fact, the layout and structure of the mechanical devices, gears and complex system functions that make up the heart determine the appearance of the dial, especially through the placement of the hands, subdials, the window environment and the other indicator controls that make up the dial.

Therefore, the designers and craftsmen who conceive the dials do take into account the technical specifications adopted for the cores.

Dial making is a linguistic art and craft, which in itself requires the student to acquire a high level of know-how and "technical secrets" passed down from generation to generation. The dial must visually satisfy the dual requirements of the enterprise: it must not only be pleasing to the eye, but must also be immediately recognizable and easy to read. A large amount of data must be conveyed more harmoniously by means of hands or calendar windows on a usually small dial. The dial can usually be divided into several parts, and in addition to refinement and aesthetics, its decorator must resolve to highlight and differentiate the study of these for the different areas. In order to realize this point in society, the Haute Horlogerie dial maker has to be well versed in the artisanal production process, which is usually centuries old.

The bottom of the dial is a sheet of gold, silver or copper, sometimes in a gentle arch, which the dial design maker rivets in a slender pin situation for activity before showing the inner and outer contour lines of the subdial by checking an hour circle as well as some other data.

The centuries-old process of carving a straight or circular line into the surface of a metal material was mastered by only a handful of craftsmen in China. The width of each line is typically only a few tenths of a millimeter, and the depth of each line is studied to be only three to four percent of a millimeter. These lines, either overlapping or intertwined, form an infinite variety of patterns that capture and reflect ambient light. One of the final realization steps is to drill holes through the diamonds and file them to make the small holes that hold the arbors of the data pointers smoother. A hollow space is left for the subdials, and the student's three-dimensional scale displaying the numerals and markers is mounted on top of the two hour circles.

So, the value management of an expensive premium watch can often be found in its detailed design.

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